For a few months every year during the monsoon season, the state of Kerala comes alive with colorful snake boat races.
What's a Snake Boat:
Fortunately
there's no need for concern, as snake boats get their name from their
shape rather than anything to do with live snakes! A snake boat (or chundan vallam)
is actually a long traditional canoe style boat used by the people of
the Kuttanadu region, in south India's state of Kerala. Typical snake
boats are 100 to 120 feet long, and hold around 100 rowers. Each of the
villages in the region has its own snake boat, which they take great
pride in. Every year the villagers get together and race the boats along
the lakes and rivers.What's the History Behind the Snake Boat Races:
The
battling snake boats of Kerala have over 400 years of history
associated with them. Their story can be traced back to the kings of
Alleppey (Alappuzha) and the surrounding areas, who used to fight with
each other in boats along the canals. One king, who suffered heavy
losses, got boat architects to build him a better vessel and the snake
boat was born, with much success. An opposing king sent a spy to learn
the secret of how to make theses boats but was unsuccessful as the
subtleties of the design are very hard to pick up. These days boat races
are held with much excitement during various festivals.
Where are the Snake Boat Races Held:
Four main snake boat races (and as many as 15 minor ones) are held each year, in and around Alleppey.
- The spectacular Nehru Trophy is held on Alleppey's Punnamda Lake.
- The oldest and most popular race, the Champakkulam Moolam, is held along the river at Champakkulam (Changanassery), around 25 kilometers (15 miles) from Alleppey.
- The Payippad Jalotsavam is held on Payippad Lake, 35 kilometers (22 miles) from Alleppey.
- The Aranmula Boat Race is held along the Pampa River at Aranmula, near Chengannur, around 50 kilometers (31 miles) south of Alleppey.
When are the Snake Boat Races Held:
Snake
boat races are mostly held from July to September, with the exact dates
varying each year depending on the phase of the moon. The exception is
the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, which is always held on the second Saturday
of August. Snake boat races are the highlight of the Onam Festival
in August/September, particularly the Aranmula Boat Race, which takes
place mid way through the 10 day celebrations. Many other boat races are
also held during the festival along the backwaters at Kottayam,
Payippad, and Champakkulam. The Champakkulam Moolam is held in
June/July, and the Payippad Jalotsavam is held in September.
More About the Champakkulam Moolam Snake Boat Race:
The
Champakkulam Moolam Boat Race marks the day that the idol of the Hindu
God Krishna was installed in the Sree Krishna Temple in Ambalappuzha,
not far from Alleppey. According to the legend, those carrying the idol
stopped over in Champakkulam on the way. The next morning, thousands of
colorful boats were assembled there to honor the event and escort the
idol to the temple. This procession is re-enacted before the
Champakkulam Moolam Boat Race takes place. It kicks off with exotic
water floats, boats decorated with colorful parasols, and performing
artists.
More About the Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race:
The
Nehru Trophy snake boat race is undoubtedly the most exciting race of
the year. This race is held in memory of India's late Prime Minister,
Jawahar Lal Nehru. An impromptu snake boat race was held in 1952 when
the Prime Minister visited Alleppey. Apparently he was so impressed with
the welcome and the race, he donated a trophy. The race has continued
on ever since. It's a commercial event and you'll need to buy tickets
from the tickets stands on the way. They cost less than $1 for for
standing room on makeshift bamboo decks, up to $25 for VIP access. Do
bring an umbrella in case of monsoon rain!
More About the Aranmula Snake Boat Race:
The
Aranmula Boat Race is a two day, predominantly religious, occasion.
Rather than being a contest, it's more about retracing the time
offerings were carried on snake boats to the Aranmula Parthasarthy
Temple. This was done to protect the offerings from rivals from another
village. The whole occasion is a celebration of the day Lord Krishna
crossed the river. Position yourself on the banks of the Pampa River
near the temple in Aranmula to witness the spectacular event.
Traditionally dressed rowers, accompanied by groups of 25 singers, are
cheered on by an exuberant crowd.
Travel to the Snake Boat Races:
The
closest airport to Alleppey is in Kochi, 85 kilometers (53 miles) away.
Alleppey has its own railway station, located a short distance south
west of the town center, and is readily accessible from Ernakulum (neach
Kochi). The nearest railway station to Aranmula is Chengannur, 10
kilometers (6 miles) away. It's easy to get a train there from
Ernakulum, and likewise all major trains between Kochi and Trivandrum
stop at Chengannur. However, Chengannur is on a different line to
Alleppey, so it's not possible to travel by train between the two
places. A taxi is often the best solution to travel around the region.
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